In Africa VII

VII

Zanzibar

There are many names of places that ring with an exotic tone and the places themselves are veiled with an exotic  mystique  in far away lands; Casablanca, Katmandu, Shanghai, Marrakesh, and the list goes on. My childhood mind’s eye imagined me traveling on wooden ships or hiking with Sherpas, to see the wonders that world has to offer. As an adult, I have still not seen them all, but, although we traveled by high-speed catamaran ferry rather than a wooden ship or sailing dhow, we managed to visit Zanzibar.

Ferry Terminal Zanzibar

It is as exotic today as the place of my childhood imagination. The resorts on the beaches, mostly along the eastern coast on the Indian Ocean, pretty much resemble resorts in other parts of the world, but Stone Town In Zanzibar Town provides an untainted journey into the past. While catering to tourists, the place; the stone and stucco buildings, the narrow winding streets, the Arab and Indian influenced doors, are all as authentic and unchanged as they were one hundred years ago.

Street in Stone Town

Street in Stone Town. Expect a motor cycle to pass

Indian Door

Arab Door

Zanzibar is a semi-autonomous part of Tanzania, in East Africa. It is composed of the Zanzibar Archipelago in the Indian Ocean, 25–50 kilometers (16–31 mi) off the coast of the mainland. It consists of numerous small islands and two large ones: Unguia (the main island, referred to informally as Zanzibar), and Pemba. The capital of Zanzibar, located on the island of Unguja, is Zanzibar Town. Its historic center is known as Stone Town.

Stone Town Center Square where people gather to talk

Zanzibar's industries consist primarily of spices and tourism. In particular, the islands produce cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon, and black pepper. For this reason, the islands, together with Tanzania's Mafia Island, are sometimes called the Spice Islands.

From roughly the middle of the first century AD, Persian, Arab and Indian traders began stopping and trading in Zanzibar. In the 1500s, the Portuguese controlled the archipelago and built the fort that still stands in Stone Town, but it was the British who defeated the Sultan of Oman in the shortest war in history – 40 minutes – in 1896, ending the reign of Middle Eastern rulers.

I had been to the island in October for a day-trip, but Sharon had never been and this was a weekend suitable for the occasion. As residents, the cost of the ferry, even in first-class, is nominal. The ferry takes one and a half to two hours to get from Dar es Salaam to Zanzibar. The closer point to the mainland is Bagamoyo, but no ferry or air service exists from that much smaller city. A flight, also reasonable but many times more than a ferry ticket, takes fifteen minutes. But the ferry is an interesting experience and comfortable. For those who have issue with the rolling, pitching and yawing on the return trip, plastic bags are provided free of charge.

 

The Ferry

First Class Seating 

The Ferry leaves from downtown Dar past the fish market with boats scattered along the beach in front, then out through the harbor entrance, weaving through the anchored ships past Bongoyo Island and on in a north-easterly direction to Zanzibar. The ferry arrives in the middle of Stone Town. The terminal is new. In fact construction of parts is still underway. My trip in October was met with chaos at the old terminal building in the middle of construction of the new. This arrival was much better.

Leaving Dar es Salaam. Passing the fish market.

Taxi drives meet and greet the off loaded passengers. Tour guides greet passengers, during earlier arrivals, some officially sanctioned with identification badges, others not; all soliciting work from the ferry passengers, particularly those easily identified as tourists; mzungus. We arrived on the last ferry and were close enough to walk to the hotel. The afternoon was already waning as we finally broke free from the melee at the terminal.

Arriving Zanzibar

The tide was in as we walked along the sea wall the short 600 meters to the hotel. Young boys took turns jumping off the wall, diving into the water below. At low tide there is no water below the wall. Boats are pulled onto the scant beach and others anchored out. Dhows, fishing boats with motors, some awaiting repair. With the ancient city as a backdrop, the scene demands painting or photographing. We accommodated with the latter.

Zanzibar Harbor

We stayed in a boutique hotel called Maru Maru in the heart of Stone Town. We were handed wet towels upon our arrival, a welcome offering anytime in this climate but especially after the ten-minute walk. Then came the cold pineapple juice. Our check-in seemed to be constantly interrupted by gestures of hospitality. From that point on, the hotel met the same high standard. The room was small but modern in all respects; the mosquito netting is a must here. The view from the rooftop Terrace may be equaled but not surpassed in Stone Town. The staff were all friendly, always greeting us with the customary “karibu (welcome).”

Maru Maru in front of car

A courtyard in the Maru Maru

We were early enough to go to the rooftop Terrace for a complimentary cocktail and look around the town before dark. Because of its history of being under the rule of the Sultanate of Oman, Zanzibar is primarily Muslim; 97% by government records. There are about fifty mosques with only two churches and two Hindu temples in Stone Town. Still, the image the twin spires of the Catholic church beside the minaret of one of the mosques was symbolic of the religious acceptance that residents there profess. Recent sectarian violence in Zanzibar, and Tanzania generally, expose a more complex religious and cultural environment. Nonetheless, the view of the city from the Terrace was impressive. 

Sharon flanked by the spires of the Catholic Church and
 a minerete of a mosque

View from the Terrace

Full moon over the restaurant on the Terrace

When visiting in October, my colleague and I hired the official guide who assisted us through customs at the terminal. He was a good guy and very helpful. I took his number then and called Saturday morning of Sharon’s and my visit. Saleh was not available for a tour, but he brought a newer guide named Daud.  The tour is prescribed by the government; a measure of consistency for tourists. Key buildings are a part of the tour, the marketplace, Arab doors and Indian doors, the view from the Africa House balcony, Freddie Mercury’s house, the Obama Shop … yes, the Obama Shop. This is a small shop that has numerous photos of the American president very popular in this part of the world. Already a tour stop because of the car license plates on the wall, it now has gained distinction for the many pictures of Barack Obama and a sign designating it the “Obama Shop”.

Guy taking a picture of me taking a picture of him

Jack fruit

Spices

Horns in the meat market

Freddie Mercury's House

Obama Shop also famous for the car license plates

President Obama on the back wall of the shop.
The irony of the placement of the picture is that in Tanzania,
 the president's picture must hang in all business establishments;
 the Tanzanian president. 

Of interest to us, was the old slave market now the sight of the Anglican Church. Dr. David Livingstone, during his explorations in Africa in the 1870s became shocked and incensed by the salve trade. He inspired others, such as Bishop Edward Steere of Zanzibar, to work for the abolition of slavery in East Africa. Bishop Steere acquired the former slave market in Stone Town and built a church on the site. The whipping post is said to have been in the exact spot where the alter now stands. Steere himself is buried behind the alter and a wooden cross made from a tree which grows at the site of David Livingstone’s grave in Africa is near a side alter in the church.  Of all the sites, the Anglican Church and its history are well worth the time and small charge to visit.

Hindu Temple

Anglican Church Steeple and Minerete of a Mosque

Scale model of the Anglican Church which sits on
 the old slave market

Bishop Edward Steere lies here

Cross made from wood from a tree growing at
 David Livingstone's grave

Inside the Anglican Church

The very name of the country of Tanzania is a combination of the name of the former German East African country of Tanganyika and the archipelago of Zanzibar. Since independence from the British in 1964, the relationship between the mainland – Tanganyika – and the Islands of Zanzibar has been somewhat strained. Even today there is talk of an independent Zanzibar. The discovery of natural gas in the waters off both coasts may fuel some of this recent discontent, or perhaps the current re-writing of the Tanzanian constitution, more likely both. While we were in Zanzibar this most recent trip, all ears were glued to radios broadcasting debates among Zanzibar politicians concerning the future of the islands; one side promoting independence, the other in favor of unity. Our guide, Doud, favored the later, whereas his mentor Saleh favors independence. The new constitution maintains the unification of the two places but grants the archipelago more autonomy. Whereas the debate is of paramount importance in Zanzibar, it is little noticed here on the mainland.

Sunset from the Terrace at theMaru Maru

The developing world in which I work offers so many contrasts and enriching experiences. Usually the history of these places dates well before the founding of our own country, yet the governments are generally emerging and want guidance from our experience. Personally, I trade the greatly enriching experiences I receive for a small tidbit of knowledge of Western Democracy I can offer in return.

Until Next Connection,

Dan