VII
Connectivity to the Internet is always an issue to one extent or another in the developing world. I have been unable to connect to the Blog since we switched to a new provider – a cheaper one, only about $150 per month now. But suddenly we are back on-line with the Blog.
Connectivity to the Internet is always an issue to one extent or another in the developing world. I have been unable to connect to the Blog since we switched to a new provider – a cheaper one, only about $150 per month now. But suddenly we are back on-line with the Blog.
Osh, Postscript from Iraq
It is known as the Southern Capital of Kyrgyzstan. It is the home of the President of the country. For us it is a place where we can bring many judges together without bringing them all the way to Bishkek; the rugged Tian Shan Mountains run between here and there. For a recent budget seminar it worked well for us. We made arrangements at a suitable hotel and packed up our consultant, our staff, and appropriate handouts, bought plane tickets and left on a Wednesday afternoon for Osh. It is a one hour or so flight from Bishkek on the Kyrgyz airline. As I have said, between Bishkek and Osh there are mountains; very high mountains, the entire way.
We boarded the prop driven Kyrgyz Air plane for the trip. It, like most in the fleet, was an old Russian built ship. The flight was surprisingly smooth. As the plane rose from Manas airport in Bishkek, the mountains dropped below us, but never so far that we could not see the craggy passes and pencil thin roads snaking through them. As the mountains became more rugged and taller, the green of the lower elevations and the signs of civilization disappeared. Then the sameness of the brown landscape below turned to monotony, and combined with the sound of droning engines my heavy eyelids finally dropped.
We boarded the prop driven Kyrgyz Air plane for the trip. It, like most in the fleet, was an old Russian built ship. The flight was surprisingly smooth. As the plane rose from Manas airport in Bishkek, the mountains dropped below us, but never so far that we could not see the craggy passes and pencil thin roads snaking through them. As the mountains became more rugged and taller, the green of the lower elevations and the signs of civilization disappeared. Then the sameness of the brown landscape below turned to monotony, and combined with the sound of droning engines my heavy eyelids finally dropped.
The Mountains from our apartment. Osh beyond
By the time I awoke, we were floating downward toward our destination in Osh. Again the green valleys with visible streams and winding roads began to appear below. Soon after the tires kissed the tarmac we rolled to a stop near the terminal building. A pre-arranged van was waiting to take us to the hotel. Once we gathered all our team and paraphernalia, we were off.
Local women in Osh market
Bishkek, being the largest city in Kyrgyzstan with around one million population, and as the capitol of the country, tends to be modern by most standards, infrastructure aside. The rest of the country is more traditional, including the second largest city, Osh. It is in many ways subtle, but certainly noticeable. The traditional felt hat of the men called a kalpak, for example, is not uncommon even today in Bishkek, but is very common in Osh and other places. The dress of the women is noticeably more traditional with long flowing patterned dresses and head scarves, some in Muslim tradition, but most simple the style of rural working women in Kyrgyzstan.
Museum at Soloman's Mountain Osh
We settled into our hotel and soon after, were gathered for dinner. By coincidence and good reputation, the restaurant we chose for dinner was the same place that Olga and I went for lunch a year earlier. It is a very popular local restaurant. Daniyar bought a bottle of vodka for a few mild toasts. The dinner was good.
The next day was a full day of seminar, ending around four in the afternoon. This allowed just enough time for our group to climb Solomon’s Mountain which is situated in the center of Osh City. It is not really a mountain; it is more of a
Local women in Osh market
Bishkek, being the largest city in Kyrgyzstan with around one million population, and as the capitol of the country, tends to be modern by most standards, infrastructure aside. The rest of the country is more traditional, including the second largest city, Osh. It is in many ways subtle, but certainly noticeable. The traditional felt hat of the men called a kalpak, for example, is not uncommon even today in Bishkek, but is very common in Osh and other places. The dress of the women is noticeably more traditional with long flowing patterned dresses and head scarves, some in Muslim tradition, but most simple the style of rural working women in Kyrgyzstan.Museum at Soloman's Mountain Osh
We settled into our hotel and soon after, were gathered for dinner. By coincidence and good reputation, the restaurant we chose for dinner was the same place that Olga and I went for lunch a year earlier. It is a very popular local restaurant. Daniyar bought a bottle of vodka for a few mild toasts. The dinner was good.The next day was a full day of seminar, ending around four in the afternoon. This allowed just enough time for our group to climb Solomon’s Mountain which is situated in the center of Osh City. It is not really a mountain; it is more of a
rock. About half way up, at the end of the drive, 
there is a natural history museum in a cave in the mountain. Our bus dropped us there and we toured the museum coming out a level above. There the trail starts over the top and down the other side. The trail is equipped with hand rails and steps for the steeper parts. It zigs and zags up and over Solomon’s mountain providing panoramic views of Osh along the way. This is a tourist mecca and destination for religious pilgrims. On the way to the top, there is a spot where the rock is shiny smooth and it is said if you slide down the rock illness will be healed. Or if you are a fertile woman, you will have a son. Or… well, there are several beliefs concerning the rock and women and men, young and old were sliding down its smooth face. Further along to the top there is a very small Mosque where you can go to pray. It is said that Solomon himself prayed on this mountain.
Even the Babushkas take a turn sliding
The hike was much easier than my last walk over the mountain with Olga a year earlier. After that walk, I was exhausted. I was prepared, wearing hiking shoes and blue jeans. Olga was not the least winded in her dress and high heels; clearly a reflection of my lack of conditioning, as well as thirty-five years difference in age. With this group I felt good when we reached the bottom on the opposite side of the mountain. Olga was not with us this time and many of the others were in far worse physical condition than I. The bus was there to meet us and took us back to the hotel.
there is a natural history museum in a cave in the mountain. Our bus dropped us there and we toured the museum coming out a level above. There the trail starts over the top and down the other side. The trail is equipped with hand rails and steps for the steeper parts. It zigs and zags up and over Solomon’s mountain providing panoramic views of Osh along the way. This is a tourist mecca and destination for religious pilgrims. On the way to the top, there is a spot where the rock is shiny smooth and it is said if you slide down the rock illness will be healed. Or if you are a fertile woman, you will have a son. Or… well, there are several beliefs concerning the rock and women and men, young and old were sliding down its smooth face. Further along to the top there is a very small Mosque where you can go to pray. It is said that Solomon himself prayed on this mountain.Even the Babushkas take a turn sliding
The hike was much easier than my last walk over the mountain with Olga a year earlier. After that walk, I was exhausted. I was prepared, wearing hiking shoes and blue jeans. Olga was not the least winded in her dress and high heels; clearly a reflection of my lack of conditioning, as well as thirty-five years difference in age. With this group I felt good when we reached the bottom on the opposite side of the mountain. Olga was not with us this time and many of the others were in far worse physical condition than I. The bus was there to meet us and took us back to the hotel.I
t is tradition in areas of Kyrgyzstan outside of Bishkek that people show great hospitality to guests. I was introduced to this when I first arrived in the country and we visited Osh and Jalalabad. This trip was no exception. An Osh judge, who was an old college friend and early colleague in the Ministry of Interior with Daniyar, invited our entire group to dinner at a restaurant walking distance from the hotel. There were eight or so from the project and several judges from the Osh courts. In typical fashion, we arrived to a long table covered with salads, appetizers and fruit plates. Then the toasts begin starting with the host, followed by the guest of honor (me) and so on depending on status. Although not strictly required, vodka is used for making of toasts. This is a Russian tradition that was easily transplanted to the Kyrgyz population. As the toasts begin, so do the many courses of the meal. There is always more food than anyone can possibly eat. That is a part of the hospitality. It is all finalized by the serving of lamb.
We brought only Ermek to translate. This was a mistake we did not repeat. When the last of the toasts was finished, Ermek was asked to make a toast. He said I have made all of them already; and in fact he had. He started the day at breakfast translating for us for the informal meal conversation. Then he translated the entire seminar for the American consultant. Then he translated all of the dinner discussion and the seemingly endless toasts. By contrast, professional translation services will insist that there always be two translators so that each one will only work for a continuous fifteen minutes before being relieved. We have never adhered to such a schedule with our two translators, but realized that we had made a mistake not bringing Olga
along as relief. Ermek was exhausted and dazed by the time we retired for the evening.
The next morning we packed to leave but made a stop at the REAL Osh Bazaar. I say real because this bazaar is actually in Osh. The Osh Bizarre in Bishkek is merely so called, even though it is the larger of the two. Our staff insisted that the fruit was fresher in Osh than in Bishkek. They acted accordingly. The overhead racks on the plane for the trip back were filled.
t is tradition in areas of Kyrgyzstan outside of Bishkek that people show great hospitality to guests. I was introduced to this when I first arrived in the country and we visited Osh and Jalalabad. This trip was no exception. An Osh judge, who was an old college friend and early colleague in the Ministry of Interior with Daniyar, invited our entire group to dinner at a restaurant walking distance from the hotel. There were eight or so from the project and several judges from the Osh courts. In typical fashion, we arrived to a long table covered with salads, appetizers and fruit plates. Then the toasts begin starting with the host, followed by the guest of honor (me) and so on depending on status. Although not strictly required, vodka is used for making of toasts. This is a Russian tradition that was easily transplanted to the Kyrgyz population. As the toasts begin, so do the many courses of the meal. There is always more food than anyone can possibly eat. That is a part of the hospitality. It is all finalized by the serving of lamb.We brought only Ermek to translate. This was a mistake we did not repeat. When the last of the toasts was finished, Ermek was asked to make a toast. He said I have made all of them already; and in fact he had. He started the day at breakfast translating for us for the informal meal conversation. Then he translated the entire seminar for the American consultant. Then he translated all of the dinner discussion and the seemingly endless toasts. By contrast, professional translation services will insist that there always be two translators so that each one will only work for a continuous fifteen minutes before being relieved. We have never adhered to such a schedule with our two translators, but realized that we had made a mistake not bringing Olga
along as relief. Ermek was exhausted and dazed by the time we retired for the evening.The next morning we packed to leave but made a stop at the REAL Osh Bazaar. I say real because this bazaar is actually in Osh. The Osh Bizarre in Bishkek is merely so called, even though it is the larger of the two. Our staff insisted that the fruit was fresher in Osh than in Bishkek. They acted accordingly. The overhead racks on the plane for the trip back were filled.
The Meat Department
I like these guys
Dear Bill and all: This is truly sad news for Iraq and especially the HJC. His unwavering loyalty was encouraging to everyone around him. There was never a doubt where he stood.
I wish we could sit around a fire and tell Haddad stories. One of my favorite memories of him was when he dropped the pistol out of his waist-band, and it went clanking across the floor. As was his custom, when he came into the room for a meeting with us, he would stop by the little refrigerator and get water bottles for everybody. This day he was in a bit of a hurry and when he bent over, this 9mm slipped out of his pants and clattered across the floor. He looked up with a grin as if to say, "Hey. I'm sorry. Get over it." What a great guy.
I agree with Dundas re naming at least a part of J(E)DI after him.
Best regards to all in the New Year.
Garry
Until Next Connection,
Dan
I like these guys
oo0oo
In October there was a bombing in Baghdad, Iraq at the Ministry of Justice Building. That is the building where the Higher Judicial Council of Iraq was housed and where I had met many times with the Director General, Yosuf Haddad. The following e-mail interchange occurred:
Abubakr,
I hope that our friend Haddad is ok after the bombing. Please give him my regards.
Dan Deja
Dan:
Most people who died are from the HJC, those whom you met are fine… I will meet the DG over Judge Faiq’s office in less than two hours and I will definitely send your regards to him. The old guy never forget you and always refer to you as Dan with the beard.
You take care,
Abubakr
Dan:
Haddad thanked you for good feeling, he has stitches on his head due to big cut caused by the glass. During our meeting the tough man broke crying for two times, he told me that he moved from his desk when the bomb went off to get something, the AC flew to his desk, the TV moved to the middle of the office. They caught some burglars last night who is looking for women purses. His comment they were policemen, funny enough he commented that nation need to be raised outside of the country.
You take care,
Abubakr
Then in early January Bill wrote:
I’m sorry to report that Abubakr learned that Mr Yusuf Haddad, Director General of the HJC responsible for Security and Personnel, passed away today.
People may remember that since 2003 Mr Haddad primarily lived in his HJC offices at the MOJ complex, forgoing contact with family and friends in order to ensure that the Higher Judicial Council emerged from the ashes of the old regime able to carry the weight of justice on its shoulders. In spite of not being able to win the fight to properly arm and equip security guards for the HJC, Mr Haddad was able to ensure that FPS guards stayed with the HJC by obtaining a living wage for them in 2009. His most enduring legacies may be the Judicial Education and Development Institute (now JDI) and an administrative structure at the HJC that was strong enough to work through the shock of dual bombings at the end of 2009. Although struggling with his health, he refused to leave the decimated MOJ after the October bombing until he could oversee the move of the HJC HQ to a new site. The decision led to several extended hospital stays, however he was not able to return to work before succumbing to respiratory problems. He is survived by a wife and children.
Bill
Bill,
That is very sad news. Yosif Haddad was the kind of person necessary for the times. He came out of retirement at the request of the Chief Justice to help get the newly independent judiciary started. He was dedicated to making the Iraqi courts functional - not at an acceptable level, but at a level that would meet international best practices. He was a true Iraqi patriot. I liked him very much and respected him more. This is a bad start to a new year. I am glad I had the opportunity to know him.
(I remember when Garry and I, along with Eric first met Haddad. Poor Eric didn't know what to do. Haddad was gruff, matter of fact and direct. He told us we were not to talk to any of his staff members (as Eric and Khalid had been doing) without his knowledge and approval. I liked him right off. I arranged to have him come to the Palace. He was humiliated by the security (search) at the gate, offended as an Iraqi by the ostentatious facility that Sadaam had built, but when Garry, Dundas and I met him, along with Abubakr, it set us on a new course for truly positive improvement to the Iraqi judiciary as partners. He will be missed.)
Thank you Bill,
Dan Deja
Dan,
It is very sad day for the HJC. During the bombing of the MOJ headquarter; he managed to stay to check on staff even though he was seriously injured in his head from shatter class. When finally forced him to see the doctor, all his clothes are filled with blood, at the hospital, they operated on him while he was answering his mobile to answer his staff, the doctor commented that” this is not a normal man.” When I met him along with Bill to see what INL in emergence response can do, he broke in tears two times upon remembering those who were lost at the bombing. I always say, Iraq needs people like him.
I will be meeting his son(Ahmad) who works for the HJC this week, I suggest if you find a card that express your condolence please do send to me and I will take to his son.
He never forget you and Garry, he always ask me about your wellbeing. And May this year brings a lot of joy to you and to your family.
Abubakr
I hope that our friend Haddad is ok after the bombing. Please give him my regards.
Dan Deja
Dan:
Most people who died are from the HJC, those whom you met are fine… I will meet the DG over Judge Faiq’s office in less than two hours and I will definitely send your regards to him. The old guy never forget you and always refer to you as Dan with the beard.
You take care,
Abubakr
Dan:
Haddad thanked you for good feeling, he has stitches on his head due to big cut caused by the glass. During our meeting the tough man broke crying for two times, he told me that he moved from his desk when the bomb went off to get something, the AC flew to his desk, the TV moved to the middle of the office. They caught some burglars last night who is looking for women purses. His comment they were policemen, funny enough he commented that nation need to be raised outside of the country.
You take care,
Abubakr
Then in early January Bill wrote:
I’m sorry to report that Abubakr learned that Mr Yusuf Haddad, Director General of the HJC responsible for Security and Personnel, passed away today.
People may remember that since 2003 Mr Haddad primarily lived in his HJC offices at the MOJ complex, forgoing contact with family and friends in order to ensure that the Higher Judicial Council emerged from the ashes of the old regime able to carry the weight of justice on its shoulders. In spite of not being able to win the fight to properly arm and equip security guards for the HJC, Mr Haddad was able to ensure that FPS guards stayed with the HJC by obtaining a living wage for them in 2009. His most enduring legacies may be the Judicial Education and Development Institute (now JDI) and an administrative structure at the HJC that was strong enough to work through the shock of dual bombings at the end of 2009. Although struggling with his health, he refused to leave the decimated MOJ after the October bombing until he could oversee the move of the HJC HQ to a new site. The decision led to several extended hospital stays, however he was not able to return to work before succumbing to respiratory problems. He is survived by a wife and children.
Bill
Bill,
That is very sad news. Yosif Haddad was the kind of person necessary for the times. He came out of retirement at the request of the Chief Justice to help get the newly independent judiciary started. He was dedicated to making the Iraqi courts functional - not at an acceptable level, but at a level that would meet international best practices. He was a true Iraqi patriot. I liked him very much and respected him more. This is a bad start to a new year. I am glad I had the opportunity to know him.
(I remember when Garry and I, along with Eric first met Haddad. Poor Eric didn't know what to do. Haddad was gruff, matter of fact and direct. He told us we were not to talk to any of his staff members (as Eric and Khalid had been doing) without his knowledge and approval. I liked him right off. I arranged to have him come to the Palace. He was humiliated by the security (search) at the gate, offended as an Iraqi by the ostentatious facility that Sadaam had built, but when Garry, Dundas and I met him, along with Abubakr, it set us on a new course for truly positive improvement to the Iraqi judiciary as partners. He will be missed.)
Thank you Bill,
Dan Deja
Dan,
It is very sad day for the HJC. During the bombing of the MOJ headquarter; he managed to stay to check on staff even though he was seriously injured in his head from shatter class. When finally forced him to see the doctor, all his clothes are filled with blood, at the hospital, they operated on him while he was answering his mobile to answer his staff, the doctor commented that” this is not a normal man.” When I met him along with Bill to see what INL in emergence response can do, he broke in tears two times upon remembering those who were lost at the bombing. I always say, Iraq needs people like him.
I will be meeting his son(Ahmad) who works for the HJC this week, I suggest if you find a card that express your condolence please do send to me and I will take to his son.
He never forget you and Garry, he always ask me about your wellbeing. And May this year brings a lot of joy to you and to your family.
Abubakr
Dear Bill and all: This is truly sad news for Iraq and especially the HJC. His unwavering loyalty was encouraging to everyone around him. There was never a doubt where he stood.
I wish we could sit around a fire and tell Haddad stories. One of my favorite memories of him was when he dropped the pistol out of his waist-band, and it went clanking across the floor. As was his custom, when he came into the room for a meeting with us, he would stop by the little refrigerator and get water bottles for everybody. This day he was in a bit of a hurry and when he bent over, this 9mm slipped out of his pants and clattered across the floor. He looked up with a grin as if to say, "Hey. I'm sorry. Get over it." What a great guy.
I agree with Dundas re naming at least a part of J(E)DI after him.
Best regards to all in the New Year.
Garry
Until Next Connection,
Dan
