VIII
Riot to Revolution
Wednesday April 7, 2010
The day started normal enough. I went to the office; Julia was already there, as usual. I mentioned to her that my Internet was not working Tuesday evening or on that Wednesday morning. Internet is my connection to the outside, so I tend to be a little sensitive about it. Julia casually said that it was probably because of the situation in Talas. All Internet providers were cut off Tuesday night, she said. I said "what situation in Talas?" Talas is the oblast (province) administrative center for the Talas Oblast. Talas, a town of 33,000, is about a four hour drive over some very high mountains from Bishkek and is in the northwest of the country. One of the hazards of not speaking the local language is a bit of a news blackout unless English speaking news sources report the events. Julia proceeded to tell me that some protesters had taken over the administrative building there. It seems that an opposition leader had gone to the administrative building to get a permit to have a protest. He was arrested and detained. His followers outside then occupied the building. As the situation there worsened, the government apparently cut all Internet service in the country. It was restored on Wednesday morning.
We went about our normal business. At about 09:30 my team leader for our court computerization component came to my office with Aijan our translator. He said “we have a force majeure (a term they dearly love here) situation.” I listened. He said that the chairperson judge in the Moscowsky Rayon Court had asked our contractor, who was at the court prepared to install computers, to take the computers back since he (the Chairperson) felt they may be damaged due to the events in the country at that time. Moscowsky Rayon Court is in Chui Oblast, the oblast where Bishkek is located, albeit outside of the city. I found the information of interest and basically said that if the Chairperson of the court feels that the equipment will not be safe, then tell the contractor to bring it back until things settle down. My team leader was to prepare a letter to that effect.
Our computerization project is on an extremely tight schedule and any delays could be problematic. I felt that even this delay in one court for a few days needed to be reported to USAID so that they were at least aware of our situation. I sent an e-mail and copied the home office. I had no sooner finished that task when Aijan came to my office and announced that the situation had gotten worse, the demonstrators were heading to Ala Too Square, the main square in Bishkek onto which the White House, the presidential office building, fronted. The main square is an easy four or five block walk from our office. We knew that this was not a good sign. Within minutes reports began arriving that government buildings were being overtaken by the crowd, which was growing. We made a decision to close the office.
We use laptop computers rather than desk tops so we immediately began to pack them. We instructed all staff who were in the office to take their computers home, and Julia, Jyldyz and I packed the computers of the staff who were not in the office. Julia took all her financial records. I removed our small office sign from the exterior of the building designating us as a USAID project. Outside, the urgency of the situation became more obvious. Armored police vehicles were speeding by going toward the city center. Police vehicles of all sorts loaded with riot gear equipped police. Some stopped to unload officers; young men driven by adrenaline, holding riot shields, wearing helmets with face shields. Then police vehicles were coming from both directions. Even transit buses had been commandeered to transport police. Our driver Vladimir was out somewhere in the city. We were waiting for his return to haul the computers to my apartment and take the staff home. More police were in the street. Some were frantic; one policeman was limping from one vehicle to another. Shots were ringing out nearby. The actual conflict remained two or three blocks away, but the intensity of the officers we were witnessing, was nevertheless great. The situation had clearly escalated into a full blown and very dangerous riot.
Finally Vladimir arrived. He gave a very nervous smile of relief and mumbled something to me in Russian as he went into the office. I easily understood that he had a harrowing trip from where ever he was back to the office. We began to load Vlad’s car with people, financial records and lap top computers. As we were loading the last of the things we were hurriedly taking, one of the employees from our contractor who is installing computers came for the letter authorizing them to temporarily stop installation of computers in courts. He was upset, as was everyone at that time. His concern, however, was not the riot occurring outside, but rather being delayed from his work. ”We have work to do!” He said emphatically. I was taken aback. I constantly hear complaints from other internationals about the work ethic of their employees and other local companies they work with. I have not had that experience with my staff and with this contractor, I certainly did not have that problem. I assured him that we could catch up when things settled down in a few days. He took the letter and left.
We were not far behind as we finished loading Vladimir’s car and began heading for my apartment. I live a short distance from the office; perhaps three long blocks. There is a lane that leads directly from my apartment to the office. Vlad used that to get me and the equipment there. It was not affected by the happenings all around and we had no trouble getting me home. I took custody of the records and computers. Vladimir took Julia, Aijan and Jyldyz to their homes. I am thankful that I have employees who not only look after me with great care, but also take care of each other and do so without hesitation or complaint.
The excitement at the square was in full force. It was mid afternoon. Once I was situated, I went to the ninth floor where an American friend of mine lived. I wanted to check on his well being. He was also home and was fine. We used the vantage of his window to try to follow the events happening a short distance from us. As we looked at the White House smoke began billowing from one, then another, and yet another spot in what we knew was the main square. We snapped a few pictures. We talked about the events and had a fairly normal visit interrupted by explosions and gun shots which diverted our attention momentarily. We noticed a person on the roof of the White House and commented on it. It really was not too unusual since any effort to protect that building from a crowd gathered at its front gate would entail placing someone on the roof. Unbeknownst to us, this person was one of the snipers who shot and killed many of the protesters as they charged the gate.
We went about our normal business. At about 09:30 my team leader for our court computerization component came to my office with Aijan our translator. He said “we have a force majeure (a term they dearly love here) situation.” I listened. He said that the chairperson judge in the Moscowsky Rayon Court had asked our contractor, who was at the court prepared to install computers, to take the computers back since he (the Chairperson) felt they may be damaged due to the events in the country at that time. Moscowsky Rayon Court is in Chui Oblast, the oblast where Bishkek is located, albeit outside of the city. I found the information of interest and basically said that if the Chairperson of the court feels that the equipment will not be safe, then tell the contractor to bring it back until things settle down. My team leader was to prepare a letter to that effect.
Our computerization project is on an extremely tight schedule and any delays could be problematic. I felt that even this delay in one court for a few days needed to be reported to USAID so that they were at least aware of our situation. I sent an e-mail and copied the home office. I had no sooner finished that task when Aijan came to my office and announced that the situation had gotten worse, the demonstrators were heading to Ala Too Square, the main square in Bishkek onto which the White House, the presidential office building, fronted. The main square is an easy four or five block walk from our office. We knew that this was not a good sign. Within minutes reports began arriving that government buildings were being overtaken by the crowd, which was growing. We made a decision to close the office.
We use laptop computers rather than desk tops so we immediately began to pack them. We instructed all staff who were in the office to take their computers home, and Julia, Jyldyz and I packed the computers of the staff who were not in the office. Julia took all her financial records. I removed our small office sign from the exterior of the building designating us as a USAID project. Outside, the urgency of the situation became more obvious. Armored police vehicles were speeding by going toward the city center. Police vehicles of all sorts loaded with riot gear equipped police. Some stopped to unload officers; young men driven by adrenaline, holding riot shields, wearing helmets with face shields. Then police vehicles were coming from both directions. Even transit buses had been commandeered to transport police. Our driver Vladimir was out somewhere in the city. We were waiting for his return to haul the computers to my apartment and take the staff home. More police were in the street. Some were frantic; one policeman was limping from one vehicle to another. Shots were ringing out nearby. The actual conflict remained two or three blocks away, but the intensity of the officers we were witnessing, was nevertheless great. The situation had clearly escalated into a full blown and very dangerous riot.
Finally Vladimir arrived. He gave a very nervous smile of relief and mumbled something to me in Russian as he went into the office. I easily understood that he had a harrowing trip from where ever he was back to the office. We began to load Vlad’s car with people, financial records and lap top computers. As we were loading the last of the things we were hurriedly taking, one of the employees from our contractor who is installing computers came for the letter authorizing them to temporarily stop installation of computers in courts. He was upset, as was everyone at that time. His concern, however, was not the riot occurring outside, but rather being delayed from his work. ”We have work to do!” He said emphatically. I was taken aback. I constantly hear complaints from other internationals about the work ethic of their employees and other local companies they work with. I have not had that experience with my staff and with this contractor, I certainly did not have that problem. I assured him that we could catch up when things settled down in a few days. He took the letter and left.
We were not far behind as we finished loading Vladimir’s car and began heading for my apartment. I live a short distance from the office; perhaps three long blocks. There is a lane that leads directly from my apartment to the office. Vlad used that to get me and the equipment there. It was not affected by the happenings all around and we had no trouble getting me home. I took custody of the records and computers. Vladimir took Julia, Aijan and Jyldyz to their homes. I am thankful that I have employees who not only look after me with great care, but also take care of each other and do so without hesitation or complaint.
The excitement at the square was in full force. It was mid afternoon. Once I was situated, I went to the ninth floor where an American friend of mine lived. I wanted to check on his well being. He was also home and was fine. We used the vantage of his window to try to follow the events happening a short distance from us. As we looked at the White House smoke began billowing from one, then another, and yet another spot in what we knew was the main square. We snapped a few pictures. We talked about the events and had a fairly normal visit interrupted by explosions and gun shots which diverted our attention momentarily. We noticed a person on the roof of the White House and commented on it. It really was not too unusual since any effort to protect that building from a crowd gathered at its front gate would entail placing someone on the roof. Unbeknownst to us, this person was one of the snipers who shot and killed many of the protesters as they charged the gate.
Bishkek burns
It was apparent that it would be a long night. We were both okay so I returned to my apartment. I fielded many calls from other internationals in and out of Kyrgyzstan inquiring about my status, and the situation generally. I called those for whom I had numbers. It was difficult not to watch the events unfold to the extent they could be witnessed from my apartment. I could see the White House, and the smoke clouds billowing above the square, but buildings shielded my view from the square itself and the ugly happenings occurring there. It was odd that the street in front of our apartment building was at all times very quiet; people were moving with little regard for the events. In fact, those unfortunate ones without means picked through the dumpsters oblivious to what was unfolding around them. In a sense, they were no better or worse off for what was happening. The guards at our building had early on taken precautions by keeping the gate closed at all times and checking who was coming and going. My Australian neighbor below me called and in the course of the conversation advised me that our guards had armed themselves with shotguns. All in all, I felt secure. Eventually, darkness fell, the sounds of violence and destruction continued, but there was nothing for me to do than go to sleep.
It was apparent that it would be a long night. We were both okay so I returned to my apartment. I fielded many calls from other internationals in and out of Kyrgyzstan inquiring about my status, and the situation generally. I called those for whom I had numbers. It was difficult not to watch the events unfold to the extent they could be witnessed from my apartment. I could see the White House, and the smoke clouds billowing above the square, but buildings shielded my view from the square itself and the ugly happenings occurring there. It was odd that the street in front of our apartment building was at all times very quiet; people were moving with little regard for the events. In fact, those unfortunate ones without means picked through the dumpsters oblivious to what was unfolding around them. In a sense, they were no better or worse off for what was happening. The guards at our building had early on taken precautions by keeping the gate closed at all times and checking who was coming and going. My Australian neighbor below me called and in the course of the conversation advised me that our guards had armed themselves with shotguns. All in all, I felt secure. Eventually, darkness fell, the sounds of violence and destruction continued, but there was nothing for me to do than go to sleep.
Thursday April 8, 2010
I woke up at 4:30 in the morning. It was still dark outside. I went to the kitchen to check the time. I looked out the window and saw flames shooting from the upper floors of the White House. I knew that what had been a violent protest, a riot, had fully transformed itself into a revolution. I watched for several minutes. I can’t say I watched in disbelief or shock or even surprise necessarily. I was mesmerized by the reality of what I had witnessed in the span of less than twenty four hours. One morning started perfectly normal and the next would see the government completely displaced. As I watched the flames lapping and flaring against the dark early morning sky, I tried to comprehend what all of that would mean. It is still unclear.
Flames from the White House pierce the early morning sky
I did not go back to sleep. I got on the Internet to try to find out what was happening. I checked the condition of the fire intermittently. As the dawn replaced the darkness behind the White House, the fire subsided. I e-mailed several people and no one, including USAID contacts, had heard that the White House had been taken over or that it had been burned. I decided that I would go see for myself and take photos in the light of day.
I had no idea what the situation would be like on the streets in the morning. I wanted to check the office and I did need some food items since the Beta Store had been on my “to do” list for Wednesday after work. About mid morning, I could see what the activity was outside my apartment. It seemed to be quiet. All the way to the White House itself, it seemed quiet. I thought I could easily make it down the lane to the office. Then I could judge the situation from that point.
I did not go back to sleep. I got on the Internet to try to find out what was happening. I checked the condition of the fire intermittently. As the dawn replaced the darkness behind the White House, the fire subsided. I e-mailed several people and no one, including USAID contacts, had heard that the White House had been taken over or that it had been burned. I decided that I would go see for myself and take photos in the light of day.
I had no idea what the situation would be like on the streets in the morning. I wanted to check the office and I did need some food items since the Beta Store had been on my “to do” list for Wednesday after work. About mid morning, I could see what the activity was outside my apartment. It seemed to be quiet. All the way to the White House itself, it seemed quiet. I thought I could easily make it down the lane to the office. Then I could judge the situation from that point.
It was a beautiful sunny morning. Those who were out were strolling with a degree of nonchalance unexpected in light of the previous night’s events. When I arrived at the corner I took a moment to visually inspect the office from across Frunze Street. It all looked to be in order; in fact it was. Normalcy prevailed as I crossed the street, entered the gate and walked up the steps to open the door. Nothing was out of place inside or out. After checking the entire office, upstairs and down, I re-engaged the security system and locked the door.
I moved down Frunze to Togolok Moldo Street by the stadium, then turned left and walked over to Jibek Jolu Avenue where there is a sidewalk market with vendors who sell fruit and vegetables; and where there are several small shops. As I turned the corner I was again struck by the normalcy of the scene. People walked leisurely, talked and shopped. I went into a pharmacy for some medicine, then into a small grocery. It was there that I noticed that there were more people buying things than normal. Obviously they were getting things to be able to stay inside if need be. At the market I bought a few things I needed. Things were so normal I thought that Beta Store must be open as well, so I deferred buying a few items until I went to Beta.
I moved down Frunze to Togolok Moldo Street by the stadium, then turned left and walked over to Jibek Jolu Avenue where there is a sidewalk market with vendors who sell fruit and vegetables; and where there are several small shops. As I turned the corner I was again struck by the normalcy of the scene. People walked leisurely, talked and shopped. I went into a pharmacy for some medicine, then into a small grocery. It was there that I noticed that there were more people buying things than normal. Obviously they were getting things to be able to stay inside if need be. At the market I bought a few things I needed. Things were so normal I thought that Beta Store must be open as well, so I deferred buying a few items until I went to Beta.
Business as usual on Jibek Jolu
I turned right at the next corner to head to the White House where I could see the damage from the previous night’s fire. When I got to Frunze across from the amusement park that runs from Frunze to the back fence of the White House, I got a call from the home office checking on my well being. A couple walked past with a stroller and a young child. People were enjoying the mid-day sunshine. It can only be described as eerie. I finished the call and crossed Frunze into the park. Although no rides or attractions were open as they usually are, people strolled along as normal.
I turned right at the next corner to head to the White House where I could see the damage from the previous night’s fire. When I got to Frunze across from the amusement park that runs from Frunze to the back fence of the White House, I got a call from the home office checking on my well being. A couple walked past with a stroller and a young child. People were enjoying the mid-day sunshine. It can only be described as eerie. I finished the call and crossed Frunze into the park. Although no rides or attractions were open as they usually are, people strolled along as normal.
Evidence of the fire the night before
Fire damage at White House
Once I arrived at the back fence of the White House, the evidence of the fire from the night before was obvious. At several windows on one of the upper floors, soot blackened the otherwise white stone of the building. In the yard around the building and inside the fence which is normally closed to the public, people walked casually looking at the destruction. Vandals inside would periodically through papers and documents out of the building to the cheers from the crowd of onlookers. I moved to the right around the building. A burned vehicle lay, a scorched blackened shell, being inspected by people who had no other purpose there than to do what I was also doing.
Once I arrived at the back fence of the White House, the evidence of the fire from the night before was obvious. At several windows on one of the upper floors, soot blackened the otherwise white stone of the building. In the yard around the building and inside the fence which is normally closed to the public, people walked casually looking at the destruction. Vandals inside would periodically through papers and documents out of the building to the cheers from the crowd of onlookers. I moved to the right around the building. A burned vehicle lay, a scorched blackened shell, being inspected by people who had no other purpose there than to do what I was also doing.
Onlookers and vandals inside the White House
Burned car inside White House fence
As I moved along the side and toward Chui Street at the front of the building, a small child about two years old, maybe less, was standing and hanging onto the fence, his father next to him. It was all too much out of place with a backdrop of burned vehicles, broken windows and carnage. I took his picture and his father even posed with him for one.
As I moved along the side and toward Chui Street at the front of the building, a small child about two years old, maybe less, was standing and hanging onto the fence, his father next to him. It was all too much out of place with a backdrop of burned vehicles, broken windows and carnage. I took his picture and his father even posed with him for one.
A father and his child view the carnage
Onlookers in front of White House
At the front of the White House the crowd was larger but still doing nothing more than looking. More burned vehicles were being inspected. There was neither reveling nor despair, just large groups of people, gathering, talking and looking. I decided to walk down Chui to Beta Store then home. Throngs of people were coming toward me to get to the square and see the results of the night’s events. When I got to Beta, I could see the broken glass on the side of the building and on the second floor where their restaurant was located. The veranda was cluttered with upturned benches and the doorway sealed by an overhead metal door. It was not open as I had hoped it would be. Across the street the Beko store’s windows were smashed and no appliances were inside. As I went home, I tried to digest the contrasts between all that I had seen in my short walk around. Then Julia called. She wanted to get the remaining office equipment from the office.
At the front of the White House the crowd was larger but still doing nothing more than looking. More burned vehicles were being inspected. There was neither reveling nor despair, just large groups of people, gathering, talking and looking. I decided to walk down Chui to Beta Store then home. Throngs of people were coming toward me to get to the square and see the results of the night’s events. When I got to Beta, I could see the broken glass on the side of the building and on the second floor where their restaurant was located. The veranda was cluttered with upturned benches and the doorway sealed by an overhead metal door. It was not open as I had hoped it would be. Across the street the Beko store’s windows were smashed and no appliances were inside. As I went home, I tried to digest the contrasts between all that I had seen in my short walk around. Then Julia called. She wanted to get the remaining office equipment from the office.
Beta store, the day after
There were rumors and reports that more violence was expected that evening and likely more activity from the hooligan and looter groups than from government protesters. In Kyrgyzstan, even the troublemakers act with ethnic affinity. They attack homes and businesses of non-Kyrgyz, including ethnic Russians, Turks and others who, although they are Kyrgyz by birth, are not ethnic Kyrgyz. Julia was rightfully concerned about the safety of our office. We, or I should say she, gathered Jyldyz, Vladimir and myself. We arrived at the office at around 2:00 pm. I had already begun to notice an increase in pedestrian traffic on certain sidewalks; young people, a harbinger of more destruction.
As we loaded computers, printers, telephones, copiers and anything else of value we had not removed the day prior, into Vlad’s car. Ermek, one of our translators, came by with his car and helped us as well. Ermek, as a young single guy, tends to follow events such as what we had been through a bit more closely than he probably should. During the events of the prior day he called me from the square to ask how I was and reported he saw weapons in the crowd and was sure violence would erupt. On Thursday he happened by as we were moving and stopped to help.
Like the day prior, my apartment became the storehouse for the equipment. I now had a spare room filled with everything that made our office function, except the desks and chairs.
I could hear some crowds during the night, but there was nothing like what had occurred on Wednesday night. I later learned that citizen groups, loosely organized, patrolled the streets with what was left of the police service, and in fact kept the crowds under control. A few people were injured, but it was extremely well handled, all things considered.
There were rumors and reports that more violence was expected that evening and likely more activity from the hooligan and looter groups than from government protesters. In Kyrgyzstan, even the troublemakers act with ethnic affinity. They attack homes and businesses of non-Kyrgyz, including ethnic Russians, Turks and others who, although they are Kyrgyz by birth, are not ethnic Kyrgyz. Julia was rightfully concerned about the safety of our office. We, or I should say she, gathered Jyldyz, Vladimir and myself. We arrived at the office at around 2:00 pm. I had already begun to notice an increase in pedestrian traffic on certain sidewalks; young people, a harbinger of more destruction.
As we loaded computers, printers, telephones, copiers and anything else of value we had not removed the day prior, into Vlad’s car. Ermek, one of our translators, came by with his car and helped us as well. Ermek, as a young single guy, tends to follow events such as what we had been through a bit more closely than he probably should. During the events of the prior day he called me from the square to ask how I was and reported he saw weapons in the crowd and was sure violence would erupt. On Thursday he happened by as we were moving and stopped to help.
Like the day prior, my apartment became the storehouse for the equipment. I now had a spare room filled with everything that made our office function, except the desks and chairs.
I could hear some crowds during the night, but there was nothing like what had occurred on Wednesday night. I later learned that citizen groups, loosely organized, patrolled the streets with what was left of the police service, and in fact kept the crowds under control. A few people were injured, but it was extremely well handled, all things considered.
Friday April 9, 2010
Like Thursday, Friday morning was quiet and all seemed to be returning to normal. We had already made the decision to keep the office closed until Monday. Julia activated the telephone calling tree to notify our staff, as well as to check their well being. At around ten in the morning I ventured out again. I needed cash. I had a sufficient amount of US dollars, but I needed Kyrgyz som. I knew that the ATMs at the Beta store were at best inaccessible. I walked to the Dimir Bank to see if their ATM was open. It was not, nor was the bank itself. I learned that the Interim Government had immediately closed any bank that might have government funds or funds in any way related to the ousted president and his family. I had not been to the Narodny store. Looking across the street from the bank, I could see that it too had been destroyed and looted. Its international ownership, links to the ousted President’s family, and large stock of liquor and food made it a natural target. I later learned that all of the Narodny stores in the city had been looted.
Narodny Store
I went to check the office. Like the day before, it was untouched. I noticed that the bank across from our office was open. The ATM outside had something draped over it indicating that it was not in operation, but the bank’s front door was open and I knew they had an ATM inside. I followed a group of four or five mature women into the bank. After they struggled with making their cards work, a function of their lack of sophistication and not the machine, I was able to get a sufficient amount of local currency to insure that I could survive for several days.
Jyldyz said that the Chinese market had been looted. The Chinese market is a four story mall containing shops run by ethnic Chinese and carrying Chinese goods. It is on the corner of Jibek Jolu and Sovietskya. We shopped there often. I decided to see what had actually happened. When I got there I was shocked to see that it had been totally burned along with the Chinese hotel and casino next to it.
I went to check the office. Like the day before, it was untouched. I noticed that the bank across from our office was open. The ATM outside had something draped over it indicating that it was not in operation, but the bank’s front door was open and I knew they had an ATM inside. I followed a group of four or five mature women into the bank. After they struggled with making their cards work, a function of their lack of sophistication and not the machine, I was able to get a sufficient amount of local currency to insure that I could survive for several days.
Jyldyz said that the Chinese market had been looted. The Chinese market is a four story mall containing shops run by ethnic Chinese and carrying Chinese goods. It is on the corner of Jibek Jolu and Sovietskya. We shopped there often. I decided to see what had actually happened. When I got there I was shocked to see that it had been totally burned along with the Chinese hotel and casino next to it.
Chinese Market
I worked my way back home past the Parliament which I had also heard was destroyed. Parliament sits next to the American University of Central Asia in what at one time was the main square. Lenin, who was moved from the front of the old Lenin Museum to its rear after the fall of the Soviet empire, now peers over the Parliament building from across the old square. With the exception of a few broken windows on the first floor, the Parliament building seemed to be largely untouched, although I knew from various reports that the inside had been ransacked.
I worked my way back home past the Parliament which I had also heard was destroyed. Parliament sits next to the American University of Central Asia in what at one time was the main square. Lenin, who was moved from the front of the old Lenin Museum to its rear after the fall of the Soviet empire, now peers over the Parliament building from across the old square. With the exception of a few broken windows on the first floor, the Parliament building seemed to be largely untouched, although I knew from various reports that the inside had been ransacked.
Media
Crowd in Ala Too Square April 9
I walked around the National Museum, formerly the Lenin Museum, to the front and Ala Too Square, the main square where the demonstration on Wednesday had occurred. On the plaza in the very front of the museum I was met with a moving if gruesome sight. A series of stones encircles a spot on the concrete containing several flowers laid in what appeared to be lime and a large splotch of what could only be blood. No further explanation was needed.
In front of National Museum
Burned truck inside White House fence
The square was filled with people. Just down Chui was the White House. When I got there I saw a sight similar to what I had seen in front of the museum. At the gate that had been crashed by demonstrators and where several young men had been shot, a crowd had gathered to pray. The scorched pavement in front of the battered but now closed fence was, like the spot at the museum, “roped” off and flowers were strewn inside the circle. Hundreds had come to pay respects to what were immediately considered heroes of this small nation. The event, such as it was, was being covered by local and likely international media. Cameras were everywhere, but nothing could detract from the solemn sight and spontaneous expression of sympathy and respect.
The square was filled with people. Just down Chui was the White House. When I got there I saw a sight similar to what I had seen in front of the museum. At the gate that had been crashed by demonstrators and where several young men had been shot, a crowd had gathered to pray. The scorched pavement in front of the battered but now closed fence was, like the spot at the museum, “roped” off and flowers were strewn inside the circle. Hundreds had come to pay respects to what were immediately considered heroes of this small nation. The event, such as it was, was being covered by local and likely international media. Cameras were everywhere, but nothing could detract from the solemn sight and spontaneous expression of sympathy and respect.
Mourners in front of White House main gate
Praying where a young man was killed
Other smaller spots were encircled and filled with flowers; charred vehicles were still inside the fence at the White House. I wanted to leave and I wanted to stay. I wanted to pay respects to young men who lost their lives for what they believed in. I was not a part of their cause, but I am a father. I wanted to leave and not interfere with those who were mourning; the Kyrgyz. It was their cause; the dead were their sons, and now their patriot heroes. Having preserved the moment in my mind, I left, conflicted and saddened and angry.
Other smaller spots were encircled and filled with flowers; charred vehicles were still inside the fence at the White House. I wanted to leave and I wanted to stay. I wanted to pay respects to young men who lost their lives for what they believed in. I was not a part of their cause, but I am a father. I wanted to leave and not interfere with those who were mourning; the Kyrgyz. It was their cause; the dead were their sons, and now their patriot heroes. Having preserved the moment in my mind, I left, conflicted and saddened and angry.
Saturday April 10, 2010
Beta Store reopened on Saturday. The veranda was still pretty much in shambles with signs and glass shattered. The fast food stand was destroyed. Inside, however, things looked normal. A smaller than usual staff served fewer than normal customers. Beta had been totally destroyed in the revolution in 2005 and when they rebuilt, they took precautions for this type of activity. There are no windows into the store, for example, and the sliding doors were quickly covered with an overhead steel door. The result was that they were able to reopen as soon as things settled a bit. I shopped.
The office was okay, still. I was grateful for that. I decided to go back to the main square and on to Bishkek City to see if that market had been violated. It is located on the other side of the city from where we reside.
Prayers for those who died on this spot
Yurt set up for mourners
The scene at the White House was the same as I had witnessed on Friday, except more flowers, more people and a yurt as somewhat of an information and memorial center. The Interim Government had in fact declared Friday and Saturday as national days of mourning for those who died on April 7.
The scene at the White House was the same as I had witnessed on Friday, except more flowers, more people and a yurt as somewhat of an information and memorial center. The Interim Government had in fact declared Friday and Saturday as national days of mourning for those who died on April 7.
White House main gate Saturday
I took this opportunity to inspect the nearby buildings for damage. Interestingly, with the exception of broken windows and door on one storefront where a marker indicated that a person died at that spot, there were no broken windows all the way down Chui Street to Bishkek City. This had been the focal point of the riots. The Office of the Prosecutor General in the square was totally burned, but no other buildings showed any damage. I speculated that while the hooligans and looters were raiding the shopping malls, liquor stores and a few businesses run by other than ethnic Kyrgyz, the main group of demonstrators was more interested in making a political statement, albeit by destroying government buildings.
I took this opportunity to inspect the nearby buildings for damage. Interestingly, with the exception of broken windows and door on one storefront where a marker indicated that a person died at that spot, there were no broken windows all the way down Chui Street to Bishkek City. This had been the focal point of the riots. The Office of the Prosecutor General in the square was totally burned, but no other buildings showed any damage. I speculated that while the hooligans and looters were raiding the shopping malls, liquor stores and a few businesses run by other than ethnic Kyrgyz, the main group of demonstrators was more interested in making a political statement, albeit by destroying government buildings.
Office of the Prosecutor General
The Naradny chain of stores are well known for having a good selection of wines and liquor as well as food stuffs. They are also owned by an international company and affiliated with the ousted president’s son, so I was not surprised that the Naradny store adjacent to Bishkek City was in the process of restocking. Although little damage was apparent, clearly it had been looted. All Naradny stores in the City had been looted. Bishkek City, an indoor market of numerous vendors selling fresh vegetables, nuts, and meat, was apparently untouched. All the shops were open and doing business as usual. I shopped.
One Week On
On Monday we moved back into the office. Vlad, Aijan, Julia, and Ermek all met at our apartment and we loaded Ermek’s and Vladimir’s cars with equipment and binders and quickly returned everything to its proper place. By ten in the morning we were business as usual. And that seemed to be the nature of the week.
I talked to the staff on Monday to get an idea of what they might know about the status of things, the new government, or the people running it. We called a full staff meeting for Tuesday. I was not surprised to know that we knew several of the new leaders and in fact two of my team leaders had been contacted by persons in the new government. Things were changing daily – no, hourly. All to be expected. This had not been a planned and organized overthrow of the government and the opposition leaders were a bit disorganized after having been thrown into the role of taking control of the government. Couple this with the fact that the ousted President was still in Kyrgyzstan in his home in Jal Al Abad in the south of the country, where he was still claiming to rule.
Undeterred, the “Interim Government” began posting daily lists of the people who would be in charge of the various agencies and ministries. A process to amend the constitution was announced, a working group appointed and a very ambitious schedule for its completion followed by a referendum. Originally scheduled for mid May the date for the referendum finally became late June; still very ambitious. One of my team leaders was a part of the working group. I hoped that he, together with the Chair of the Judicial Council, a tireless reformer with whom we worked closely, could ensure that the judiciary would maintain the gains we made and expand upon them.
Elections are scheduled for October. Parliament was disbanded, The Constitutional Court, suspended along with the work of the Judicial Council and National Council for Justice Affairs, our two primary counterparts. The Chair of the Supreme Court was asked to resign, and was replaced by her first Deputy; she remains on the Court as a Justice. Since these events, we have been searching for an indisputably legitimate official from the Interim Government to sign some technical legal documents, and it appears that the Supreme Court Transition may be one of very few if not the only transition of a body that has full legitimacy. The Chair resigned and was replaced by her first Deputy; this might have been done in any circumstances.
With the exception of our court computerization project, our other activities were scheduled to end on April 20. The suspension of our counterparts simply prevented us from finalizing a few deliverables we had been working on. The adoption of a major draft law we had done and which had been stuck in the now defunct (and destroyed) President’s Office was now impossible. Work on the new candidate’s school for judges was stopped along with the work of the Judicial Council. But we were days from concluding work on these activities anyway, so the impact was not significant. We clarified with the new Chair of the Supreme Court that the computerization project would continue.
Memorial to those who died
By week’s end, despite all of the uncertainties, things had become surprisingly normal again. A combined effort among the governments of Kazakhstan, Russia and the United States arranged for ousted President Bakiyev to be taken to Kazakhstan and later Belarus from his Osh home in the South of the country where he had been attempting to energize his few remaining supporters. The memorials at the front gate of the White House continued and a permanent memorial had already been erected in honor of the eighty or so people killed in the uprising. People moved about, repairs to damaged buildings began and life resumed much of its routine.
Reflections
The government fell because of overwhelming discontent among the public. Unbridled greed and corruption had once again, as it had in 2005, consumed those in power. The current regime is in fact made up of many who were a part of the “Tulip Revolution” that put Bakiyev in power. They were soon replaced with Bakiyev’s family and cronies. The electric rates were recently increased, whether out of legitimate need or to further line Bakiyev’s pockets, it was the last straw for many. The people saw a few people gaining massive wealth while the rest continued to struggle. This is a sure prescription for unrest and potential revolution. Kyrgyzstan, like so many countries around the world, is a poor nation. When a few take advantage of circumstances for their own gain leaving those without means to struggle, history repeats itself as it has throughout the millennia. We simply refuse to learn.
Things continue to normalize. The borders are open again after a month of being closed. There are rumors of potential violence from supporters of Bakiyev on May 17, the fortieth day from the death of those who were killed on April 7; there will be mourners as well. We will see what transpires.
I have been in a number of situations which erupted into very uncomfortable and potentially problematic circumstances since I began working in developing countries. There was the takeover of policing by the army in Bangladesh; then the demonstrations in that country against the Iraq war where President Bush was hung in effigy in numerous locations around the city. In Kosovo I was out working during the riots of March 2005. Iraq was a war zone and dodging rockets became a way of daily life for several weeks when the Green Zone was being attacked in the spring of 2008. This was the first time I have witnessed a revolution. It was unexpected though not a surprise. I thought it would have played out differently, but then there is no set pattern for these things. I learned that the line between hero and criminal is a very fine one. I am not sure it is worth measuring. I know that young men died. I know that greed is evil. I know that all people everywhere will always want to share the basics of life; food, a home, a job, a chance to raise a family, an opportunity to have a better life.
Julia's
sister Katya and me on Victory Day; Sharon and Julia's parents, our hosts
Things continue to normalize. The borders are open again after a month of being closed. There are rumors of potential violence from supporters of Bakiyev on May 17, the fortieth day from the death of those who were killed on April 7; there will be mourners as well. We will see what transpires.
I have been in a number of situations which erupted into very uncomfortable and potentially problematic circumstances since I began working in developing countries. There was the takeover of policing by the army in Bangladesh; then the demonstrations in that country against the Iraq war where President Bush was hung in effigy in numerous locations around the city. In Kosovo I was out working during the riots of March 2005. Iraq was a war zone and dodging rockets became a way of daily life for several weeks when the Green Zone was being attacked in the spring of 2008. This was the first time I have witnessed a revolution. It was unexpected though not a surprise. I thought it would have played out differently, but then there is no set pattern for these things. I learned that the line between hero and criminal is a very fine one. I am not sure it is worth measuring. I know that young men died. I know that greed is evil. I know that all people everywhere will always want to share the basics of life; food, a home, a job, a chance to raise a family, an opportunity to have a better life.
Julia's
sister Katya and me on Victory Day; Sharon and Julia's parents, our hosts 
We will leave on June 29, 2010. I wish this country all the best. I have met so many who have worked so hard for the good of all. We have made more friends, most of whom we will never see again. On Sunday, Mother’s Day in the US, Victory Day in the former Soviet Union (victory over Nazi Germany) we sat eating shashlik at Julia’s parent’s home. The celebrations in Moscow were on the TV. Twenty seven million Soviets were killed by the Germans in World War II; twenty seven million. We reflected on that in very modest but comfortable surroundings. We talked about the recent revolution. And we drank wine and ate until we were filled. As we visited with these kind and generous people, I was reminded once again that the basics of a good life are so simple and unpretentious.
Until Next Connection
Dan
Dan
