In Africa IX

IX

Woodcarvers, Woodworkers

Everyone has seen and many people own the amazing carvings from Africa, especially those from the coal black, dense, heavy wood, ebony. Here in Tanzania, the prices for these magnificent pieces of art are very reasonable and always negotiable. I have often wondered whom these artists are that carve these pieces. There are many of them. We spend time looking through the numerous small shops stretching along the highway Sam Nujoma Road in the Mwenge area of Dar es Salaam.

Wood carving shop. Carvings larger than life

Carvings of Maasi

The best I can tell, there are three levels of people in the Mwenge Woodcarvers Market; the people who own the shops, the woodcarvers and the “brokers” for lack of a better term. It is the brokers who usually make the initial contact with potential customers. As Mzungus, arriving as we usually do on a slow Sunday afternoon, we are assured of getting a lot of attention from those selling the wares. The brokers try to determine what we are looking for and then direct us to appropriate shops. They stay with us as we stop along the long line of small narrow shops. They know the process, or at least they freely quote prices. We have learned that if we speak to the owner of the shop, the starting price is usually much lower. Maintaining this discrepancy is obviously how the brokers make their money.

Young "broker"

Maasi Village carving

It is the shop owners who have the relationship with the carvers. It is hard to tell if the carvings are consigned to the shop owners by the carvers or purchased or possibly some combination or even a different arrangement. Regardless we are always greeted at each shop with the familiar “karibu – welcome.”

Karibu

The most interesting of all the players at the woodcarver’s market are the carvers themselves. They have impressive talent and yet are at the very bottom of the marketing scheme. One of the brokers took us out the back door of a shop to the area behind, where the carvers work. Their tools are basic; chisels and something to use as a hammer. No benches, clamps or vices. Hands and feet hold the wood while it is transformed into lions, elephants, people, crocodiles, buffalo, and whatever you or they can imagine. The work areas are under overhangs and metal shed roofs off the backs of the shops. Sometimes they simply work in the open. Small fires heat food for the carvers, tended by a few women. The carvers are all men.

Apprentice with "monkey chain"

Woodcarvers. Large work in progress

It is an absolute wonderment to watch these men work. Apprentices begin with smaller pieces; clubs, inter-linking hanging monkeys, etc. The more accomplished carvers sometimes spend months on carvings that stand eight or more feet and are extremely intricate. Life size statures of people mainly Maasi; some even larger than life. A popular carving is what is often referred to as the family tree. It is basically a piece of wood – a log sometimes that is carved into numerous people all connected from bottom to top, inside and out and around the circumference of the wood. Larger diameter pieces have several dimensions. There are people on the inside as well as the outside, and they all rise to the length of the wood several people high. One unfinished but phenomenal piece we saw behind the shops took six months to get to the point where it was when we observed it. It stands eight feet tall and has a diameter increasing from bottom to top of three to four feet. The carving starts in the center of the log and works out to the outside layer. Thee “family tree” type of carvings depict life in the villages and show people doing many different daily chores.

This family tree took six months so far

Even more fascinating than the carvings, was what we saw in a common gathering area under a corrugated tin roof. There was a chalkboard at one end of the area. It had words written on it. At the top was “English” below, quite obviously, was an English lesson – which itself was not precise English. It was impressive that they were taking time to teach the carvers some basic English skills to assist them in their work and future work. Some carvers ultimately own a shop or become “brokers.” English skills are essential to success in that event.

Carver's common area

They learn English

Carvers will sell direct to customers. Customers, however, seldom see the carvers. We were fortunate. If you do buy from the carvers, you receive the very best price. Even if you do not buy and just want to take a picture of this fascinating cultural artifact, a small gratuity is expected and, in our case, gladly offered. 

There are other woodworkers in and around Dar es Salaam. Some work in shops, usually owned by foreigners, making dhow furniture. Dhow furniture is furniture made from old dhow boats. The wormholes, natural curves, and rustic look of the weathered dhow wood have a popular if not irresistible appeal. We don’t own one, but shelves made from the bow of an old dhow are the most popular form of dhow furniture. We have a chaise lounge and a swing made from dhow wood. They are interesting to look at and functional to lounge on.

Lounge from old dhow boats. 

We have also purchased items from vendors who set up alongside the busier roads. Interestingly, n these roadside open-air markets, the price drops as you walk from the very roadside back into lesser-visited parts of the market. We found the builder of some small folding tables tucked behind the vendors and down in a depression between the roadside and a wall. We got the best price from him and he finished the second of two tables we purchased from him while we waited.

Dhow swing on right. folding table on left
(neighbors' heavy dhow chairs in back)

Some woodworkers have more permanent facilities. There is a small sign on the ground leaning against a wall in a narrow unmarked alley on our street advertising a woodworker. Curious, we stopped and walked the few hundred feet to the non-descript shop. They were building beds; headboards, sideboards, and footboards. The craftsmanship was excellent. There were some saws, but virtually all of the work was done with hand tools. The owner showed us pictures of his prior work, including kitchen cabinets, tables, chairs and beds. He will build to order whatever you need.

Woodworker's shop near our house

Bed headboard in progress

Bed footboard

Watching the woodcarvers and woodworkers is a refreshing yet troubling step back in time. Skills we have nearly lost to the electronic/mechanical age seem to thrive here. In Western cultures we cannot afford the cost for the labor needed to produce these products. Here, that cost is negligible.



Until Next Connection,
Dan